Viticulture
Soils are largely clay or loess with a volcanic substratum. Vines are approx 20 years old. Yields are kept to 10 hectoliters per hectare. The meeting of the two rivers Tisza and Bodrog at Tokaj creates a mist similar to Sauternes which encourages noble rot to affect the dried and shrivelled Aszu grapes. One vine yields approx one glass of wine.
Furmint - approx 70% of plantings in the region.
A variety with very high levels of tartaric acid which is particularly susceptible to Botrytis. |
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Harslevelu - approx 25% of plantings.
Less susceptible to Botrytis but rich in sugars and aromas. |
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Muscat de Lunel - approx 5% of plantings.
The most difficult grape to grow but important seasoning. |
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Viniculture
There is much vintage variation, with approx 3.4 good/plentiful Aszu vintages out of 10. Aszu grapes were historically picked from bunches into 20 litre wooden tubs called puttony. The Aszu grapes are crushed, releasing their intensely sweet juice. The non-Aszu grapes are vinified to make a base wine. The number of puttony added per barrel gives the final puttonyos level of the wine, printed on the label.
Fermentation takes place in used 140 litre Gönci barrels made from Hungarian oak, in cellars extending for over 2kms where natural yeasts abound, and can take one to two years. Aszu wines must legally be matured for three years. Royal Tokaji wines are usually aged for longer, however still retaining their distinctive uplifting acidity.